Our trip took off with eight ladies led by the only guy Boss Yazmi ably assisted by Captain (Chia Seiw Khoon).. On the whole, the trip was highly successful. We were one happy family always crackling with merry laughter. It was a memorable journey with many “first time in my life kind of experiences” for most of the members. The Hoper glacier was a first for some. Then there was the magnificent sunrise at Duiker Viewpoint where we watched the first rays of the morning sun light up the majestic snow capped peaks of Rakaposhi, Ultar and Diran, (all above 7000m high) in a kind of slow motion way. The Tupopdan famously known as the Passu Cathedrals were so beautiful and awe inspiring. Last but not least the miraculous Khewra Salt mine discovered when horses belonging to Alexander the Great were found licking at the salt outcrops.
Day 1 Fly Islamabad: We boarded Thai Airways for trip to Islamabad via Bangkok at 1320hr arriving the same day 2300hr. Overnight (ON) Islamabad Blue Sky Hotel.
Day 2 Fly Gilgit: Left for airport for flight to Gilgit. We were really fortunate to be able to fly on our first trip as the unpredictable weather often led to flight cancellations. The flight was hardly smooth going with some throwing out and Captain was trapped in the washroom. In the afternoon we visited the Karga Buddha, an engraving of the Buddha made on the mountain side and then took a stroll along the village stream. The van dropped us off at Gilgit town. We bought cherries as it was in season. As we were crowding around admiring one local truck that was all beautifully decorated with bells and chimes as well as with drawings of eyes, flowers and animals, the local boys gaped and took snaps of us with their mobile phones. The locals believe in tying a piece of black cloth to their beautiful truck in order to ward off the evil eye. At The Riveria hotel at Gilgit, we spent most of the evening and morning in the lovely English garden.
Day Karimabad Hunza Valley: We left for Karimabad, the trekking capital of Pakistan and the main centre of the Hunza region. We walked along the narrow mud and cobblestone path to the imposing Unesco-listed Baltit Fort, the former palace of the Mirs (rulers) of Hunza. Restored and open to the public in 1996, the fort is around 765 years old. There is a dungeon where criminals are hurled down (with leg or hand broken) and kept in pitch darkness without food or drink for three nights before being banished to another remote area. There are measuring vessels for various foodstuffs which the people have to tithe to the Mirs. The grain storage was deep and had an opening at the top where only a small child could be let in to bring out the grain when needed. The living quarters of the Mirs with their sun room and balcony from which one could view the entire village as well as the neighboring Altit valley surrounded by all the snow capped peaks. We were shown a slide show and heard about the Japanese killer mountain as well as the German killer mountain. In the past the people worshiped shamans and the ibex mountain goat. ON Karimabad Hill Top Hotel.
Crossing Hussaini bridge / Gulmit Hotel
Day 4 Hoper Glacier: Woke up at 0330, hopped into two jeeps which took us to Duiker Viewpoint. Slightly before 0500 we caught the first rays of the morning sun as it lit the mountain peaks of Rakaposhi, Ultar and Diran. Ladies Finger on the Northern side did not glow as the others. Later in the morning we took the same jeeps to the Hoper glacier. In the evening we made arrangements for some traditional Hunza musicians to perform. We joined the locals who had gathered for their Hunza dance. ON Karimabad.
Day 5 Ghulkin Homestay: Last minute shopping in Karimabad before we left for Gulmit. We bought dried mulberry fruit, tomorrow tea, preserved apricots and used GoreTex jackets for a song. Also found in the shops was a bluish stone known as Lapis Lazuli, favored by the Goddess Ishtar of Iran. Upon arriving in Gulmit, we were just in time to attend the Al Amyn English School Prize Giving Day celebration. Then we visited Hussaini Village where we walked over the wooden hanging bridge crossing the Hunza River . Later we arrived at Ghulkin village. We took a walk around the village, walked up to the local school which offered a spectacular view of the surrounding peaks. Spent the evening watching the ladies cook dinner in a traditional Ghulkin home. Home stay at various homes in Ghulkin.
Day 6 Khunjerab Pass China: We took an early morning drive to Khunjerab pass which at 4730m is the highest highway in the world. As we were passing through the Khunjerab National Park we were delighted to catch sight of a herd of ibex, there were exactly ten. We witnessed two ibex engaged in a very brief fight that caused one of them to fall down the slope. We also saw two little brown marmots dashing across the highland, and a herd of yaks grazing. Back to Gulmit for a stay at Silk Road Lodge offering a spectacular view of the Passu Cathedrals.
Day 7 Gulmit We visited the Al Amyn English School again where we donated books and some money for their library. The school allowed us to go around the classes and watch the lessons being taught. Later on we took a walk around the village, had some light refreshment consisting of yoghurt and bread and cherries in one local home. We visited another local home for light lunch consisting of pancakes, mulberry sauce, apricot oil and some broth made of flour. In the evening we relax by the sides of Lake Borit while the young and adventurous ones take a boat ride. Return to Silk Road Lodge for the night.
Day 8 Gilgit: We visited the Ghulkin Musuem located in an old mud house. Saw the stuffed snow leopard, head skull of the ibex, blue mountain goat and Marco Polo sheep. After that we visited the handicraft centre where we witnessed ladies weaving intricate designs on the weaving looms. In the afternoon we left for Gilgit, at the bus station we bought the bus tickets for the next day's trip to Islamabad . Our booked flight Gilgit-Islamabad was canceled because of bad weather, quite a common occurrence.
Passu Glacier / Passu Catherals
Day 9 Back to Islamabad: Left early to catch our express bus down to Islamabad . A strenuous, long 15 hours rocky ride with express toilet stops. The side effects were headaches, backaches, sore throats. ON Islamabad Blue Sky Hotel.
Day 10 Khewra Salt Mine: We visited the Ethnic Museum in Islamabad . It is interesting to note that this land was the site of the Indus Valley Civilization, one of the world's earliest civilizations. It was preceded by the Mehrgarh Period and followed by the Gandhara Period and the current Islamic Period. Next stop was the Faisal Masjid with its tent like structure and four minarets that look like rocket ships. Then we traveled to Khewra Salt Mine, the second largest salt mine in the world after the one in Krakow , Poland . The whole mountain is made of salt, some parts are white indicating the presence of pure sodium chloride, some pink, indicating magnesium and others red, indicating iron. We took a train ride into the salt mine. The pathways are strewn with mud because it is very slippery to walk on salt. Miners today use gun powder. We are shown brine lakes, stalactite and stalagmite formations. In one cave, where the brine had totally evaporated, cuboid-shaped salt crystals also known as “Pakistani diamonds” glitter all over in the dark. Outside the mine was the souvenir shop where some of us bought the lamp made of rock salt. We left for Lahore which we found massive and messy. ON Lahore National Hotel.
Day 11 Lahore: Full day city tour of Lahore . Lahore has a number of grand colonial buildings like the General Post Office, the University of Punjab . The Minar Pakistan commemorates their independence as well as their separation from India . We visited the Lahore Fort and Royal Mosque both constructed during the Mogul reign. Later we visit the Lahore Museum . In the evening we watch the closing gate/flag ceremony at Wagah located on the India-Pakistan.border. Crowds had gathered from both sides in a celebratory mood. While one side chanted “ Hindustan ”, the other responded with “ Pakistan , Jindabad”. We were impressed by the handsome, extremely tall and fully attired border guards with their fan-like head gear and shining black boots. Their ceremonial antics included the way they kicked their legs into the air, stamped their feet on the ground and strutted around like fighting cocks. It was an amusing event. We finished the day with buffet dinner at Salt & Pepper that had excellent Pakistani cuisine and musicians singing to the accompaniment of drums and the accordion. Rushed to the airport, slept like a log the minute we boarded our plane.
Day 12 Arrive Home: Home sweet home.
Lahore Fort / Visit to Driver's home
Some Urdu phrases we picked up:
kabi khushi kabi ghum sometimes happy sometimes sad
syukriah thank you
kuda hafiz goodbye
ait, do, ti 1, 2, 3
One Urdu song we sang everytime we arrived safely at a new place or when we are about to depart from a place.
Meery Meheboob Tujee Salam (2x)
Salam salam
Meery Meheboob Tujee Salam (translated – darling I love you)
Acknowledgement
Special thanks to Boss who took much, much care and pain to bring out the best in each and everyone of us whether it was through his debonair charm or through his lens.
To Captain for painstakingly guiding the ship through hail and storm.
To Jamie for conscientiously video taping us at every destination and
Most of all A Big Cheer to EVERYONE
We have made this WONDERFUL JOURNEY come to pass.
