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Thailand Kancanaburi, Cambodia's Angkor Wat & Phnom Penh (Siem Reap, Tonle Sap, Battambang & Phnom Penh)
Faces of the BayonIt all started when my wife's company held a sales conference in Bangkok in August 2000. She flew in while I opted for the low-cost overland option. I started the journey aboard the Langkawi Express at 1030pm arriving in Hadyai at 1000am the next morning. It was an easy trip as I had a sleeping berth. Cost Rm37.50. There is only one morning bus at 730am. Other Bangkok bound buses depart hourly from 3pm to 10pm. I got on the 3pm bus, arriving at the Bangkok Southern Bus Terminal at 4am the next morning. Cost Bt490.
In the later part of the morning, my wife and I took the public aircond bus for the 2 hours journey to Kancanaburi, the site of the famous Bridge Over the River Kwai. Cost Bt78 per person. We checked into a simple backpackers boathouse Bt150 per room. We then hired bicycles Bt10 for half a day and visited the Jeath Musuem, the War Cemetary and the Bridge over River Kwai. There were hoards of day tourists especially at the bridge and surprisingly a few groups from mainland China.
We booked a full day tour with Westour starting at 7am the next day. The itinerary included the well-run Hell Fire Pass Memorial Musuem funded by the Australian Government, a 2 hours elephant safari in the hilly forest area with a few river crossings, lunch in a Karen Village, a soak in hot spring pools beside a river and a train ride on the Death Railway track. We finished at 5pm and caught a bus back to Bangkok.
Today was a Saturday in Bangkok and we visited the huge Chatusak Weekend Market. Visitors to Bangkok should allocate a whole day for visiting this huge complex of stores. In the evening it was more shopping at MBK or Mah Boon Krong Shopping Centre, the Sungai Wang of Bangkok.
At 6am the next morning I boarded the train to Aranyaprathet at the Thai Cambodian border Bt50. My wife opted to fly back today leaving me to do a solo Cambodian trip. I crossed the border into Poipet at 1230am. The road conditions in Cambodia are attrocious with millions of potholes and bumps, good only for pick-ups trucks. One had a choice of sitting in cramped conditions in the truck or face the elements sitting at the uncovered back. I opted to sit in at a cost of Rm30 for the 150km journey which took 7 hours. We arrived in Siem Reap dead tired and after dinner, I laid in bed reading and planning for the Angkor Wat.
3-D map of the Angkor complex near Siem Reap
I was up early at 7am and eager to make my way to Angkor Wat. These magnificent temples were build over a period of 600 years from 802 to 1432 when the Khmer empire were a great power in SE Asia and the whole complex covers a huge area of 75 square miles. Entrance fees were US$20 for a day pass and motor hire complete with driver was US$6. An alternative for big groups would be a pickup hire of U$20 for a day. I started with Angkor Thom (Temple of Thom) with its famous and much photographed faces of the Bayon. Then it was zipping about the other temples. I was templed out by about 2pm and laid down on top of breezy Pre Rup Temple for a short snooze.
I then proceeded to the Ta Phrom which has been left the way it was first discovered in the jungle. Huge kapor and fig trees appear to choke the monuments and it is a photographer's delight. I ended the day visiting the Angkor Wat, the main temple with it myriad of rock panels carvings. It was certainly a long day and this big circuit covered a distance of 26kms.
Main Temple of Angkor Wat
I woke up at 6am to make my way to the edge of the Tonle Sap Lake about 8km out of Siem Reap. The fast boat US$15 to Battambang crossed the great lake and passed through numerous floating villages before going up-river. This picturesque trip took only 2 1/2 hours. I walked to the Transport Terminal with the intention of going to Poipet but was bundled into a truck which eventually took me in the wrong direction, down to Phnom Penh, 250kms 10 hours.
In the morning, I opted to "have a look around" and ended up in Toul Sleng Museum, a major torture site of the Khmer Rouge regime, where thousands were brutalised and murdered. I also dropped by the huge Psar Tmei, the main market in Phnom Penh, which is more like a departmental store and wet market all in one. I boraded the 12am pick-up for another 8 hours ride back to Battambang.
From Battambang, Poipet the border town is only 120kms away but the journey took 4 hours. I crossed the border at 2pm and was on the bus to Bangkok Bt170 at 3pm arriving after 4 hours. I stayed the night in Bangkok 'recuperating' from the long long journeys which took a heavy toll on my small buttocks.
I made my way to the Southern Bus Station in the afternoon and boarded the 4pm overnight bus to Hadyai Bt490 arriving at 5am the next morning. I then made my way to Butterworth where there are numerous buses going back to Kuala Lumpur and home.
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